FraisGout: Tokyo Fashion

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Shibuya Gyaru: Tokyo Fashion Subculture

In this series, we will be exploring all the fashion subcultures that have made Japan the fashion powerhouse it is today. The iconic Gyaru is considered one of the main subcultures in Tokyo’s fashion history, having influenced styles and trends across the world during its peak in the 2000s.

Tanned skin, dramatic makeup, long nails, bleached hair, school uniforms and rebellion—just some of the things that have come to define the iconic Shibuya Gyaru. In actuality, gyaru is much harder to define since there are so many subcategories within this one subculture, all with their own style, history and legacy which have helped cement its place in Japan’s fashion history.

The History and Cultural Significance of Gyaru

Like the majority of other fashion subcultures, the gyaru style originated in the streets of Harajuku and Shibuya during the Heisei period, a time when traditional ideals were being questioned. It was during this time that many teenagers started to experiment with their fashion, beauty and lifestyle choices, taking some cues from the West including bleaching their hair, wearing more comfortable clothing and embracing individualism. Gyarus came to symbolize the new and modern technological culture, spending their free time taking purikura, texting friends on their cellphones and embracing mass consumerism by shopping regularly at Shibuya 109.

As more people became immersed in the gyaru world, new categories started to emerge with some of the most notable being:

Agejō: a more glamorous and mature style
Amekaji: a colorful and cute style inspired by American casual wear
Hime gyaru: a more feminine and princess-style take on the subculture

There are also some controversial subcategories of the genre which used to exist such as Ganguro and Yamanba which are now seen as examples of cultural appropriation.

Tokyo Fashion Subculture: The Iconic Shibuya Gyaru

For many women in particular, the Gyaru subculture was more than just a fashion statement, it came to represent a non-conformist lifestyle and gave them the freedom to express themselves however they wanted.

In its heyday, in the late 90s and early 2000s, some of the most famous faces of the subculture included Tsubasa Masuwaka, Kumiko Fuayama and Rie Matsuoka. Such models helped propel the gyaru subculture, making it global phenomenon with celebrities like Paris Hilton and Gwen Stefani taking inspiration from the style in their Y2K era. Today, there are not really any models with this distinct style, with the closest being Yuki Kimura.

Is gyaru fashion still popular?

Although all the rage in the early 2000s, nowadays you won’t see many individuals pulling off the gyaru aesthetic on the streets of Tokyo. That is not to say the iconic Shibuya Gyaru is forever gone; aspects of the subculture still live on. Many teenagers today take inspiration from the subcategory of the gyaru subculture known as kogyaru style; wearing high-school uniforms with shorter skirts, loose socks, checked scarves and covering phones and school bags with lots of charms.

At its peak popularity, the Shibuya gyaru subculture faced quite a bit of backlash from the older generation for being too “racy” and representing teenage delinquency. Such associations as well as changes in society and lifestyle all contributed to making the gyaru aesthetic a figure of nostalgia.

The rising prominence of fast fashion brands like Zara, H&M and Uniqlo from the 2010s onwards are also partly responsible for the decline of this and other subcultures, with growing teens preferring to follow microtrends rather than solely stick to one distinctive aesthetic. More recently, since the pandemic, there has been a noticeable shift to adopting more natural makeup and minimalist clothing which might explain why gyaru fashion has not had a proper resurgence.

All of that said, this subculture has still captured the hearts of those around the world, with many Gen-Z and millennial users on Instagram and TikTok having expressed their love and nostalgia for aspects of the youth-centered subculture including the outfits and nail art. Notably, egg, the magazine that every gyaru used as a handbook back in the 90s, is still around today but as an online zine.

Where to Shop Gyaru Fashion

Shibuya 109 was, and still is to an extent, the mecca for all things gyaru. Although many of the iconic brands that every budding gyaru shopped are still around in Shibuya 109, they have altered their style slightly to better fit in with the more current and toned-down trends. Don’t let that discourage you though, you can definitely still find individual pieces amongst the racks that can be used to recreate the perfect gyaru look.

Egoist

One of the most cherished gyaru brands back in the day, Egoist still sells a variety of items suitable for any Shibuya gyaru including faux fur vests, oversized hoodie dresses and leopard print tops. Ideal for those who prefer the Mode gyaru, the more high-fashion category of the subculture.

Address: Shibuya 109, 2F, 2-29-1, Dogenzaka, Shibuya City, Tokyo

Emoda

Similar to Egoist in style, Emoda was another must-wear brand back in the day. Currently, most of Emoda’s clothes have a more chic and minimalist look to them. That said, some of the individual pieces such as the co-ords, dresses and jackets would work well in a gyaru-inspired wardrobe.

Address: Shibuya 109, 2F, 2-29-1, Dogenzaka, Shibuya City, Tokyo

Anap

At Anap, you will find a lot of oversized graphic hoodies, tracksuit sets and other casual wear. It is good for those wanting to fit into the more Amekaji style of the gyaru subculture since it is a bit more sporty and preppy.

Address: Shibuya 109, 5F, 2-29-1, Dogenzaka, Shibuya City, Tokyo

Lip Service

One of egg’s most popular models back in the 2000s, Hitomi Endo actually became the face of this brand for a while. Compared to the other brands on this list, Lip Service is more feminine and chic in style.

Address: Shibuya 109, 5F, 2-29-1, Dogenzaka, Shibuya City, Tokyo

Gyaru Beauty Brands

Achieving the ultimate Shibuya gyaru look isn’t just about the clothes, it is also about the dramatic makeup look which includes wearing long fake eyelashes, black eyeliner and coloured contacts. The two most popular beauty brands which most gyarus used and still do, are Dolly Wink, known for their famous fake eyelash range created in collaboration with Tsubasa Masuwaka, and Candy Doll, Tsubasa’s own brand which sells ‘doll-like’ make-up.

Nails are also an important part of the Gyaru look. Although some gyarus favored simple French manicures, heavily decorated nails were and are the staple and treated as an essential accessory. Many nail salons in Tokyo do an amazing job at creating cute, unique and blinged-out nail sets with some of the most highly recommended being Jill&Lovers, favnail and nail mafia.

Lolita: Tokyo Fashion Subculture

In this series, we will be exploring all the fashion subcultures that have made Japan the fashion powerhouse it is today. The Lolita subculture is one that is known all around the world.

Even those who don’t know much about Tokyo’s fashion subcultures can recognize a Lolita when they see one. Drawing inspiration from Victorian styles and garments with aspects of kawaii (cute) culture, Lolita fashion is a unique and distinctive aesthetic. It has captured the hearts of many individuals around the world.

Those who dress up as Lolita often look like they have just stepped out of a classic fairytale. They are often wearing a knee-length skirt with a petticoat, blouse, bonnet and anything else with frills and lace. Most also wear a wig to give that doll-like look.

Although Lolita has a different association outside, in Japan it is linked to elegance and cuteness. Within this fashion subculture, there are three main styles, “gothic”, “classic” and “sweet”. However, over the years a few more styles have come into existence including “hime (princess)” and “sailor”.

The History and Cultural Significance of Lolita

The Lolita subculture emerged in the streets of Harajuku at a similar time to other fashion subcultures including Shibuya gyaru, visual kei and decora. It was part of a reaction to Japan’s strict gender roles and social expectations. In the early 1970s, there was a growing obsession with all things cute. This alongside aesthetics like doll-kei and otome-kei (maiden style) helped form the basis of what would become the style.

Thanks to magazines like Fruits and Gothic & Lolita Bible, Lolita fashion became more well-known in Japan during the 90s. Those who wanted to become part of this subculture would hand-make most of their clothes or buy second-hand. The subculture peaked in popularity during the 2000s. Many Lolitas would meet up at Jingūbashi, the bridge between Harajuku Station and the entrance to the Meiji Shrine. This bridge was also once known as “Harajuku Cosplay Bridge”.

The increasing use of the internet allowed those living outside of Japan the opportunity to order lolita items as well as find a community of enthusiasts on social media platforms.

Kawaii Ambassadors

Interestingly, in 2009 the Ministry of Foreign Affairs selected celebrity models Misako Aoki, Yu Kimura and Shizuka Fujioka to become “カワイイ (Kawaii) Ambassadors” in an effort to try and popularize the subculture overseas. One of the ambassadors, Misako Aoki, even went on to serve as the president of the Japan Lolita Association. During their time as ambassadors, they attended pop culture events around the world. They successfully put this fashion subculture on the world map, with more and more Lolitas popping up in different countries. The increasing use of the internet allowed those living outside of Japan the opportunity to order Lolita items. They could also find a community of enthusiasts on social media platforms.

Other notable Japanese figures who helped to make the subculture what it is include Mana—a member of Malice Mizer a visual kei band. They popularized the gothic Lolita style. Yukuari Tamura, a voice actress, also advocated for the style.

Is Lolita fashion still popular?

Similar to the fate of other Tokyo fashion subcultures, Lolita fashion has also lost popularity over the years. There are many reasons for this including Gen-Z favoring other more casual aesthetics; the cost of the outfits being too expensive; and Japanese youth no longer being able to hang out in the once renowned Jingūbashi are the reasons.

That said, there are still a number of Lolita enthusiasts, with the subculture even becoming increasingly popular in China. On the streets of Harajuku or the train, you will sometimes see individuals dressed head-to-toe in an expensive Lolita-style outfit. However, for the most part, you are more likely to see individuals like those photographed for Tokyo Fashion, implementing a few aspects of the style into their outfits.

Where to Shop Lolita Fashion

If you are a budding Lolita, Harajuku is still the best place to go to buy items. Specifically, the ground floor of the department store LaForet is mostly dedicated to Lolita fashion. They also have a wig shop, making it the perfect place to pick up a full outfit.

Angelic Pretty

Angelic Pretty is one of the Harajuku-based brands that first sold Lolita-style clothing back in the 70s and popularised the aesthetic. The brand is still going strong, having retained a place on the ground floor of LaForet. Perfect for those who want to replicate the “sweet” or “princess” category of the subculture, Angelic Pretty sells beautiful frilly and lace dresses that every budding Lolita dreams about.

Address: Laforet, B.1F, 1-11-6, Jingumae, Shibuya City, Tokyo

Baby The Stars Shine Bright

Created by Akinori Isobe and Fumiyo, Baby the Stars Shine Bright is another clothes brand that specializes in Lolita dresses and accessories. This store stocks a few different styles including cute and gothic. It’s a good choice for those who want to find more of their personal Lolita style. There is even a sister brand called Alice and the Pirates, which sells more classic-style clothing. It can be found on the same floor as Angelic Pretty in Laforet.

Address: Harajuku KY bldg, 2F, 6-29-3 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo

Atelier Pierrot

A favorite with Gothic Lolitas, Atelier Pierrot sells a great selection of dresses, head accessories and shoes. The store even stocks international brands that can only be bought at Atelier Piero in Japan.

Address: Laforet, B.1F, 1-11-6, Jingumae, Shibuya City, Tokyo

Lolita-ish Brands

There are a few brands including Liz Lisa, Secret Honey, Ank Rouge and Amavel which are also loved by the Lolita community. Although these brands aren’t technically Lolita brands, their clothes are often associated with the subculture. Their clothes are said to be a more casual and toned-down version of the traditional Lolita garments. All these brands can be found in the iconic Shibua109.

Address: Shibuya 109, 2-29-1, Dogenzaka, Shibuya City

Decora: Tokyo Fashion Subculture

In this series, we will be exploring all the fashion subcultures that have made Japan the fashion powerhouse it is today. Decora fashion symbolizes everything Harajuku is known and loved for.

The term decora originated from the Japanese katakana word for decoration (デコレーション). It’s used to describe a style full of color, cute characters and a whole lot of accessories. Unlike the iconic Shibuya Gyaru, known for her mature style, Decora fashion has a youthful and playful feel to it.

This subculture has limited fashion rules; with individuals using their creativity and customization to put together a Decora-themed look. It is less about the clothes and more about how you decide to decorate and accessorize yourself. It is common for those who follow this trend to upcycle items like toys. Using them to make stand-out and often quirky accessories. Other common accessories include colorful band-aids, stickers on the face, hair clips, bows, plastic bracelets and necklaces.

This subculture has limited fashion rules…

For the base of a Decora-style outfit, many choose to wear something basic like a colorful hoodie or graphic T-Shirt as it serves as a blank canvas that can be worked on. Tutus and leg warmers are also considered a staple. Items that have popular 80s and 90s cartoon characters like Care Bears, Hello Kitty and Disney on them are another standard feature of the Decora look. Makeup is often kept minimal. However, many do opt for colorful eye shadow and wigs that match the color scheme.

Within this vibrant subculture, there are two main styles. One of these is Oshi Decora, which revolves around creating an outfit based on one character or one color theme. The other is known as Hadeko, a more androgynous style, implementing rainbow colors and psychedelic themes.

The History and Cultural Significance of Decora

Most people credit Tomoe Shinohara, an idol who was popular among teens in the 90s, for laying the foundations for what would eventually become Decora fashion. Shinohara was known for her distinctive style, often wearing clothing worn by children and her hair in pigtails. Many of fans or ‘Shinorers’, tried to replicate her youthful and childlike style, eventually putting their own spin on things.

As well as Shinohara, artist Sebastian Masuda helped shape the subculture with the creation of his brand 6%Dokidoki. Opening its doors in the backstreets of Harajuku back in the 90s, the 6%Dokidoki shop initially sold artwork. They then went on to sell original Decora-style accessories. The shop still stands in the same place today and is the go-to shop for Decora fans.

Similar to Gyaru and Lolita, Decora fashion was at its heyday during the 2000s. Thanks to one of the most recognized Fruits magazine covers—which featured two young women styling their handmade Decora accessories—the trend became increasingly popular and worn on the streets of Harajuku. During its publication years, many Fruits covers included fashionable teens wearing Decora style.

Is Decora Fashion Still Popular?

Decora style girl in Takeshita Dori Tokyo Japan

In the last decade, there has been a shift towards more casual and minimalist styles. Yet, many young Tokyoites today still have a soft spot for cute characters and colorful accessories. Some will try and implement these into their everyday outfits. Down Takeshita Street, you may still see some committed individuals wearing a whole Decora-inspired outfit.

Similar to other Japanese fashion subcultures, Gen Z and appreciation for nostalgia and 2000s aesthetics, have helped preserve the subculture. As of now, model Haruka Kurebayashi, who is regularly featured in Kera magazine, is the main face of the Decora subculture. Kurebayashi is also the creative mind behind the cute and colorful arches at the beginning of Takeshita Street.

Where to Shop Decora Fashion

By far, Harajuku is the best place to shop for Decora fashion and accessories. Although there are not many dedicated Decora shops in the area, you will find some of the most iconic brands here as well as a variety of affordable accessory shops.

6%Dokidoki

Why not buy something weird and wacky from the iconic brand that made the subculture what it is? Still located in the backstreets of Harajuku, 6%Dokidoki is the place to go for Decora accessories, shoes and clothes. You will also find many original character goods and other interesting miscellaneous items here.

Address: 4−28−16 2F, Jingumae, Shibuya City, Tokyo

ACDC Rag

ACDC Rag is known as one of the core places to shop for Decora-style fashion. Often missed by passersby, as it is tucked away in the middle of Takeshita Dori, this shop mostly stocks funky pop-punk, gothic and of course, Decora clothes. Similar to 6%Dokidoki, at ACDC Rag you will also find some original character goods.

Address: Hayashi Building, 1F, 1-16-7, Jingumae, Shibuya City, Tokyo

The Silhouette

Situated near the beginning of Takeshita street, the Silhouette sells a variety of clothes, accessories and plushies. It’s not considered an official Decora shop but you are bound to find something that works for the look. Whether it be a cute plush bag or a colorful hoodie, it’s here.

Address: 1-16-1 Jingumae, Shibuya City, Tokyo

Paris Kids

Paris Kids is where you will want to go to stock up on cute and trendy accessories. Being one of the most popular shops in all of Harajuku, especially among young teens, Paris Kids sells a great selection of hair clips, necklaces and earrings that won’t break the bank.

Address: Harajuku Family Bldg, 1F, 1−19−8, Jingumae, Shibuya City, Tokyo

Other Places to Shop

As mentioned, cute characters are an important addition to any Decora look. That’s why you should check out places that sell character goods like Kiddy Land, Sanrio store and Don Quijote. It is at these shops that you can pick up cute hair clips, plushies and bags.

Decora fashion is all about embracing individuality and creativity! For those who do need a little bit of inspiration, take a look at Tokyo Fashion.

Visual Kei: Tokyo Fashion Subculture

In this series, we will be exploring all the fashion subcultures that have made Japan the fashion powerhouse it is today. The popularity of the music genre, Visual Kei, went on to influence the start of a new fashion subculture with the same name. Today, it is considered to be one of Japan’s most unique and recognizable subcultures.

Short for ‘Visual Style’, Visual Kei is an alternative music and fashion movement defined as flamboyant, androgynous and theatrical. The aesthetic takes influences from international and Japanese glam rock and punk rock bands. Followers often have long dyed hair and wear heavy makeup and monochromatic outfits.

There are quite a few subgenres within this subculture. The most common ones are Kote Kei, the most old-school one with a goth and punk feel, Erguro Kei, which features grotesque motifs, and Tanbi Kei, a style that is more influenced by Victorian and Rococo fashion.

Given the punk and goth influence, it is unsurprising that most of the clothing worn follows a darker scheme. Outfits will often include dark lace and feature goth motifs such as cobwebs, skulls and crosses. An excessive amount of studded accessories, piercings and platform shoes like Creepers and Doc Martens, are just as important as the outfit itself.

The key thing about the Visual Kei aesthetic is that although individual aspects may look slightly messy, such as teased hair and ripped materials, overall everything looks stylized and polished.

The History and Cultural Significance of Visual Kei

Originating as an underground music scene during the 80s, Visual Kei can best be seen as Japan’s take on the rock genre. Having taken inspiration from the glam rock genre as well as pioneering artists like David Bowie and Queen, this subculture quickly went on to establish its own unique set of characteristics and by the 90s, the term Visual Kei was officially coined. Interestingly, what came to define the style was not the music itself but the visuals and performance. Those in Visual Kei bands had a certain look to them. They were more androgynous, having elaborate hairstyles and wearing stylized costumes.

X Japan is widely considered to have been the one that revolutionized the characteristics of the subculture. Their overall look was not only inspired by glam rock artists but also by the theatrics of Kabuki. The members wore dark eyeliner and sometimes face paint to create a look that blended aspects of the heavy-metal and glam-rock genres. Their hair, which was often dyed, long and teased to create immense volume, was also a talking point. Notably, each member had their own persona. They dressed slightly differently, adding to the dramatics of the overall aesthetic of the group. Many other influential Visual Kei bands, including Dir En Grey and Malice Mizer, played an important part in shaping this subculture.

Is Visual Kei Fashion Still Popular?

These days, Visual Kei bands don’t tend to be in mainstream media, meaning that the days of fans emulating the style of their favorite bands are more or so gone. Experiencing a slightly similar fate to the Shibuya Gyaru, the Visual Kei fashion subculture, peaked in the 2000s, a time which is seen as more carefree and a significant decade in terms of fashion.

All of this said, many of the once-popular Visual Kei bands still receive much love from their fans, showing how the legacy of this music movement has remained strong.

Where to Shop Visual Kei

Given the decline of the mainstream popularity of Visual Kei, there aren’t many specific shops left. In the last few years, there has been a noticeable decline in shops selling more general goth and punk goods in Harajuku and Shibuya—two of the main hubs for Tokyo’s famous fashion subcultures. However, there are a few places down Takeshita Street that you may want to try and scope out.

Boutique Takenoko

Boutique Takenoko has been in business on Takeshita Street for an impressive 43 years. They sell a variety of gothic and Lolita-style clothing, as well as stage costumes worn by celebrities like Lady Gaga. Rather extravagant, this shop is perfect for those who want to really commit to the Visual Kei aesthetic. With its colorful and show-stopping display, it is hard to miss. The store has an interesting history, which you can read more about in this Japanese interview.

Address: Takeshita Street Junes Building 1F, 1-6-15, Jingumae, Shibuya City, Tokyo

Yellow House

This underground shop is a haven for Visual Kei fans. Selling a mix of goth, rock and punk-style apparel, which are slightly more casual in style, Yellow House is a great option for those who want to implement aspects of the style into their everyday wardrobe.

Address: 1-6-15 Jingumae, Shibuya City, Tokyo

Mo・mon

Although Mo・mon mostly sells a mix of styles and casual clothing, you will find some Visual Kei-esque items here. As of now, the outside of this small store is filled with goth and punk-style clothing which would work well in any Visual Kei-inspired outfit.

Address: 1-20-7 Jingumae, Shibuya City, Tokyo

Doc Martens

As mentioned, Doc Martens is one of the most popular shoe brands in the world of Visual Kei. This is no surprise given the iconic leather boot has long been a staple for the broader punk and goth communities. The good thing about Doc Martens is that they go with many different outfits and are good quality, lasting for years.

Address: 1-14-30 Jingumae, Shibuya City, Tokyo

Rin

Many Visual Kei artists have quite a few piercings. For those who also have piercings, you should check out Rin. This jewelry shop specializes in jewelry for different body piercings including ear lobes, cartilage and nose. From crosses to studs, you will find a lot of jewelry with goth motifs—all at an affordable price.

Address: Shibuya 109 1F, 2-29-1, Dogenzaka, Shibuya City, Tokyo

Shop Online

Fans of the style may actually have more luck shopping online. Brands like Moi-meme-Moitie, H.Naoto, Sex Pot Revenge and Hellcatpunks are considered staples in the world of Japanese goth and punk fashion. Popular Visual Kei artists even created some of these and have collaborated with notable artists in the genre.